2009 Neil Ellis “Western Cape Red”
Stellenbosch, South Africa
The Story
I seem to be entranced with South Africa these days, ever since I asked one of my wine Reps to bring in some South African wines for me to taste for potential club candidates for the Classico Club a few months back. He brought in such an impressive array of wines, both white and red, of various price points that I haven’t been able to get them off my mind since then – kinda like a song that sticks in your head or an image you can’t shake. I’m haunted – and I’m going to expose YOU to my sickness! We haven’t had a South African wine in this club since last December (the sparkling Pinotage) and there are a plethora of wonderful red wines that you could explore from Ernie Els’ homeland – Shiraz, Cabernet, Merlot, Grenache.
These are high-end, world-class wines and amazing, gulpable values that will blow your mind. Hopefully, this wine falls in the latter category.
Neil Ellis is one of the top producers from South Africa and, as a general rule for ANY value-hunting across the globe, a good rule of thumb is to find the top producers and try one of their entry-level wines. This is exactly what I did when I went looking for a value wine to partner with the “Big Dog” wine that follows below. When my South African specialist came by with a few more beauties, this one stood out for its pure drinkability – loads of dark, ripe fruit, a hint of leafiness and intriguing notes of spice. Lots to offer for such a small price!
Winery Background/History
In 1986 Neil Ellis took a calculated leap of faith into the wine-negociant arena, buying and vinifying grapes from selected vineyards and marketing these hand-reared wines under his own label. Mindful that exceptional terroir and assiduous vineyard cultivation form the bedrock of great wine, Neil forged long-term supply partnerships with top grape-growers in premium areas.
Neil Ellis’s approach to winemaking is that different grape varieties thrive under different soil and climate conditions that are not likely to be found on a single estate. From the winemaker’s start, the philosophy has been to locate the terroirs that produce a distinctive grape quality and work closely with quality-minded growers in those areas. He placed the emphasis not only on the environment but also on caring viticultural practices by a dedicated team of growers that extends through to the winemaking practices.
Today the same philosophy—sourcing superior grapes from low-yielding, hand-selected vineyard lots in the Cape’s top terroirs—remains the mainstay of the Neil Ellis wines. In the very year Neil Ellis set out as a negociant, his future partner Hans Peter Schroder purchased the Stellenbosch wine estate, Oude Nektar, in the spectacular, viticulturally-ideal Jonkershoek Valley. This coincidence gained fresh resonance some years later when Neil and Hans finally met. Neil, recipient of many accolades since flying solo, had outgrown his leased cellar; Hans, in search of a like-minded partner for a quality-focused winery, had extensive cellar facilities (and, moreover, prime-quality grapes).
From this synergy emerged a unique joint venture: Neil Ellis Wines. Today the journey of Neil Ellis Wines is not only of Neil Ellis anymore, but a team of young, dedicated winemakers harnessed in their pursuit of quality winemaking. After four decades of making wine, the next stage of the journey has begun with Neil’s son, Warren, sharing responsibilities as winemaker and viticulturist.
The Region – Stellenbosch
Emerging from the shadow of Apartheid, South Africa is increasingly making better wines, which usually represent good value for money at all, levels on the quality scale. Although South Africa is classed as a 'new world' region, wines it produces are often nicely poised between the new world and old world styles. Look out for reds from South Africa's 'own' variety, Pinotage, which makes striking gamey and earthy-tasting wines, often with a savory, cheesy edge to them. The most famous regions are Stellenbosch, Paarl and Constantia, although cooler regions such as Walker Bay are beginning to attract attention. Just a short distance east of Cape Town, this is the country's leading wine area, and is home to many of the country's leading estates. The town itself is dominated by the University, and despite its relatively large size has quite a relaxed feel. Vineyards fringed by mountains make for some lovely views, and the wine route, which takes tourists through several different trails, is well marked out. There are several different subregions, and the geology here is quite complex. Simplistically, the granite-based soils in the east are especially suited to the production of fine red wines, whereas the sandstone soils in the west are best for whites.
Winemaker Info
Neil launched his career in the corporate environment (with KWV, then South Africa’s biggest wine co-operative) before taking up residency at the historic Groot Constantia Estate. Neil then migrated to Zevenwacht, rapidly putting that newly-built cellar on the wine-map. Invariably thought of as an individualist wine-entrepreneur, he started producing wine in 1986 under the Neil Ellis label. In 1993 Neil Ellis and Hans Schroder pooled their talents in a joint venture which has gone from strength to strength. His son Warren Ellis is now part of the winemaking team. Dreaming to be a winemaker as a young boy, Warren started helping his dad in the winery at a young age. He holds both a BSc and MSc Agric in Viticulture and Oenology from the University of Stellenbosch. He joined the team in 2006 and recently travelled the European wine world doing research on cellar technology and viticulture. He currently fills a dual function having winemaking and viticultural responsibilities.
Wine Specs
- Varietals: 47% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Shiraz, 14% Merlot, 3% Cabernet Franc, 1% Malbec
- Vineyards: Sourced from a multi-vineyard blend in the Western Cape region
- Soils: Clay loam to granite and shale
- Harvest: Between February and March
- Fermentation: In stainless tanks and underwent a series of pump overs until dry. Further maceration before drawing off and light pressing.
- Ageing: 9 months in 2nd, 3rd and 4th fill French oak barrels
- Bottled: March 2010
- Alcohol: 14%
Winemaker Notes
A full bodied red wine with purple-red hues and good depth of color. Concentrated red berry fruits of dark cherries, plums and spicy fruit cake flavors provide an uplifted intensity. The nose is clean and pure with layers of rich dense fruits. Well integrated oak provides a caramel/mocha complexity. Fine soft tannins add structural focus and length.
Wine Ratings/Reviews
“A sweet, slightly jammy style, with toasted vanilla leading plum and black cherry pie flavors. Cabernet Sauvignon, Shiraz, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Malbec. Drink now. 6,000 cases imported.” Wine Spectator
“(A blend based on 47% cabernet sauvignon and 35% shiraz): Dark red. Expressive aromas and flavors of crushed dark berries, tree bark, licorice, pepper and spice cake. Offers lovely sweetness but the mid-palate is also given good shape by a firm edge of acidity. I find this both riper and more structured than the last vintage I tasted, the 2007. Finishes with substantial but ripe, broad tannins.” 89 Pts - Inter’l Wine Cellar
Food Pairing
Try with rich braised meats like Coq au Vin or with Veal Chops, Rack of Lamb or simply grilled lamb chops with cracked black pepper.
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2009 Al Tocedro Malbec La Consulta Reserva
Mendoza, Argentina
The Story
Okay, so yes, I chose another wine from Argentina for this month’s club. No, I am not vying for a free trip to Mendoza, I just have been bowled over by the quality of wines I have been tasting recently. When I weigh the fact that I’m returning to a country that we have visited recently against putting in a wine that is not quite as good or as interesting, I opt for the better wine. I don’t know what is going on or why I have come across such an impressive string of wines from Argentina. It’s no secret that this country has been hailed as a great place to look for value wines of tremendous quality, so I’m not unearthing some undiscovered pattern. I was blown away with the wines I tasted from this stellar producer. We’ve been pouring the regular Malbec by the glass for the past month or so – and as good as that one is, this Reserva is unbelievable! It’s got it all, if you ask me: depth, richness, purity of fruit, lush mouthfeel, a long finish…wow! Open this baby with a nice steak and ring in the new year with style!
Winery Background/History
Created in 1998 with the purchase of an ancient winery surrounded by 17 great cedar trees. Located in the district of La Consulta, Valle de Uco, Mondoza. Karim Mussi Saffie is the owner and winemaker who turned winemaking into a family affair. In 2000 the ancient winery was renovated and turned into a state-of-the-art operation that blends the best of traditional winemaking with technological innovation. All harvesting, sorting and crushing are done in individual batches by hand. Traditional grape transportation systems were replaced with new technology that allows for temperature controlled, gentler transportation thus guarding the cleanliness and varietal purity of the grapes. The extract is done with a gravity flow system developed at the winery over 100 years ago. 2001 was the winery’s first year of production. The Altocedro Reserva is one of three styles produced. Its grapes come from very old vineyards with 65+ year old vines. 100% of the Reserva wine is aged in French oak barrels for 12 months. Known for its complexity and big, bold flavors, it is geared towards the more experienced consumer who is used to drinking full bodied wines – like you!
Winemaker Info
Karim Mussi Saffie, winemaker and owner, is 35 years old and has presided over Altocedro SA since 1999. His family has been linked to the wine trade for over 30 years. Currently the winery is in its 12th year of life with 10 vintages. Karim has succeeded in positioning his brand in the most demanding and important markets in the world, giving Altocedro global brand recognition. His Altocedro Malbec Reserva was chosen as one of Wine Spectator’s “Top 100” Wines of 2008. In 2007 he was recognized withe the award “Outstanding Young Mendoza” by the Consejo Empresario Mendocino in the category “commercial achievements, economic and business.”
Grape Varietal
Malbec is Argentina's signature red wine grape and one of the five major red Bordeaux grape varieties. Malbec was first grown in Cahors in southwestern France, and was at one time the most prized wine of France. Growers in Bordeaux did little replanting of the grape after the phylloxera epidemic of the late 19th century, and two disastrous frosts in Cahors during the 20th century doomed the varietal in Europe. Malbec was brought to Argentina by French agricultural engineer Michel Pouget in 1868, and it found a home in Mendoza where the grape seemed to thrive during the long, sunny growing seasons. Malbec now has 22 recognized clones in Argentina and they are usually planted on their own rootstocks, unlike the vineyards of California and France. Add Argentina's sunny skies, high elevation vineyards, cool air temperatures, and controlled irrigation, and you are rewarded with rich, dark, juicy fruit producing nicely balanced and integrated wines. Its tannins are normally far smoother than Cabernet Sauvignon, fruit flavors are slightly fruitier, and it can be consumed when relatively young, although many higher-quality Malbecs will also age beautifully.
Wine Specs
- Vines: Original Malbec rootstock from La Consulta
- Altitudes: 1000+meters above sea level
- Age of Vines: 49-67 years old
- Density: 2,025 plants per acre
- Harvest: Manual in small plastic boxes during 2nd week of April
Region
La Consulta is located 60 miles southwest of the city of Mendoza. Its belongs to the San Carlos department in the Uco Valley region which is irrigated by the Tunuyan River, the main channel from waters that originate from the snow of the Andes. The altitude is over 1000 meters above sea level. This area has all the characteristics ideal for growing grapes. Besides the special weather, soil and water characteristics, the town has a long viticultural history.
Wine Ratings/Reviews
“A dark and racy red, sporting a creamy mix of blackberry, cassis and dark plum fruit wrapped in silky tannins. Hints of freshly cured tobacco and spice fill the finish. Drink now through 2014. 1,667 cases made.”
92 Pts. – Wine Spectator
“The 2009 Malbec Reserva was sourced from vines averaging 75 years of age and spent 15 months in a mix of new and second-use French oak. It delivers a step up in richness from the Ano Cedro cuvee, along with greater density, succulence, and length. Plush on the palate, it conceals enough structure to evolve for another 2-3 years and will be at its best from 2012 to 2021.” 92 Pts. – Wine Advocate
Food Pairing
Typically full to very full bodied with higher alcohol, you’ll have plenty of robust options. Pairs well with a wide range of foods including beef, game like venison, sausages, short ribs, spiced or grilled pork and medium-strong cheeses.
REMEMBER: Visit Vino Voce to check out the other January Club Selections – you get the “Discounted Member Price” on those wines too!
