In Italy there is a curious proverb, piu se spenne e pejo se magna, literal translation: “the more one pays, the worse one eats.” The proverb is meant as a reminder to celebrate simplicity and uncomplicated things – and although our trip has had its complications, today reminded me of the wisdom behind these words.
Let's start by saying that we can call off the men in the nice white jackets, I’m…I’m doing much better now. I wasn’t REALLY seeing little scoops of gelato prancing around my room. I was, er…um…only exaggerating things a bit for dramatic effect…
Back to the travelogue: Today we were up and out of the door later than planned (well, it IS Italy, after all). We set out for a small producer in Madonna di Como, a small town on the outskirts of Alba – and when I say small, I mean so small that even our Italian GPS (with the female voice and British accent, thank you) couldn’t find it. We drove in circles for 45 minutes looking for a certain church – which I can only assume doesn’t really exist based on the completely confused looks we received from people we stopped and asked for help/directions (yes we are men, and yes – we asked for directions). We called our contact, but got no call back. Not good. I came very close to having a “Guerra Meltdown,” which doesn’t happen often, but when it does, it isn’t pretty. The last recorded incident was in the summer of ’95, and involved a “Teach Yourself the Harmonica” tape and a tire iron – but we’ll save that story for another day. Let’s just say it’s similar in scale to a Stage 4 tornado or 7.5 earthquake – there is much devastation and weeping left in the aftermath. And remember, I haven’t had gelato for 3 days… luckily, our cell phone rang and disaster was averted.
So apparently, here’s the funny part: The bewilderment of the locals was due to the fact that we were nowhere NEAR where we were supposed to be. Hilarious, right? Hysterical! Yeah…uh-huh…where in the H$#*@ is the nearest Gelateria?!! I don’t CARE that it’s only 9:30 in the morning…
Anyway, we got on track and met up with our gracious contact – who had just returned early from his “August Holiday” to meet with us and prepare for an early harvest, while his wife and 2 children had stayed back in the little lakeside village where the family had been vacationing. Thus, he explained, the simple, modest plates of cheese, prosciutto and bread to accompany the wine, versus the impressive spread that his absent wife usually prepares.
The wines were very good and the packaging very sleek. Turns out they have hired a VERY famous Italian wine consultant to help them make the wines. His touch was evident – the wines are very polished and lush. “Sexy” was the descriptor my companion used – very fitting. We tasted an Arneis (white), a Dolcetto, 2 Barbera, a Nebbiolo, and a single vineyard Barbaresco in the tasting area before walking the 150 yards or so down a dusty dirt road to the cellar to taste 2 Barolo and a Moscato. The brief time in the blazing afternoon sun was long enough to adhere our shirts to our backs from perspiration, so the cool temp of the cellar was a welcome blessing. The operation in small, yet it is very evident that they have invested plenty of thought, time and money into taking things to grand level. This is a label we plan to watch at Enoteca La Storia… Afterwards, our kind host took the time and trouble to lead us, via car, to Canova, a nearby village, and thereby pull double duty as guide and translator, for our next appointment with a young, dedicated winemaker who speaks very little English.
The experience was comparable in that this, too, was a small, family-owned and operated business and the wines were very impressive – but that’s where the similarities ended. This cantina is very small, uncomplicated and modest, as attested to by the plastic swing set and multitude of scattered toys that flanked the dirt driveway. A single building housed the family, the wines, and the cellar. Our young host was wearing gym shorts, a t-shirt and tennis shoes – casual, yet fitting, considering the oppressive heat. In the cellar (aka basement), waiting for us was a long table adorned with plates of food, a line of stems and several bottles of wine. The setting may have been unassuming, but the level and quality of both the food and the wines was outstanding! The “meal” consisted of Veal Tonnato, Giardiniera, Beef Carpaccio with shaved Parmigiano, bread and fresh salami and prosciutto. Without question, one of the highlight meals of the trip. The wines were excellent too – very subtle, very traditional, very thoughtfully made – quality stuff! The line up consisted of a dry Moscato that undergoes a long, cool maceration and aging – it reminded me of a Rhone white – aromatic, bold, rich. The reds consisted of a Dolcetto d’Alba, a Barbera d’Alba, a Langhe Rosso (Nebbiolo blend), a Langhe Nebbiolo, and 2 Barbaresco. The purity of the wines was incredibly impressive.
We said our quick goodbyes and headed off to the Roero region to meet with the last winery of the day. We were running late, but, luckily, they didn’t hold it against us. Another quick tour and back to the tasting room for a flurry of activity, mainly chatting and tasting. An amazing and impressive array of wines. Clean, fresh, and varietally correct. One of the more interesting wines was a little known varietal called Pelaverga, lightly sparkling and reminiscent of strawberries. I’ve had one or two before, but they were from Verduno (further south in Piedmont), this one, much lighter and softer, was from the subregion of Saluzzo. The ’07 Roero Rosso Riserva was also a standout – classic Nebbiolo nose and flavor profile, but all soft and cuddly like a newborn puppy.
Another round of quick goodbyes and we were off to the village of Barbaresco to meet up with Renato Vacca, friend and uber-talented winemaker of Cantina del Pino. He quickly discerned the look of fatigue and state of over-satiation on our faces and suggested a “quick, light meal” at a wine bar in the center of town – a perfect call. A little salad, some prosciutto & melone accompanied by, first a bottle of sparkling Erbaluce, then a rose, then a few bottles of his friends wine (Freisa & Barbera), with the piece de resistance – 2 bottles of ’07 Cantina del Pino Barbaresco, the Ovello and the Albesani – such good wines! Nice way to end a long, fun, eventful day. Oh, and by the way, I hate to name drop, but also in attendance were a few of Renato’s fellow winemakers from Barbaresco: Sottimano, Moccagatta, Albino Rocca, and Domenico Capello. Okay, so maybe getting lost Italy, even when deprived of gelato, is not so bad...
