2008 Pieropan “La Rocca” Soave Classico
Veneto, Italy
The Story
Soave (“swah-vay” – a region and a category of wine, NOT a grape variety), in the Veneto in North East Italy, has a reputation for producing rather neutral, boring white wines. It’s partly deserved. Pop into your local supermarket and buy their cheapest Soave. It will be a bulk wine, with some fresh acidity but rather neutral flavors. Indeed, production here is dominated by cooperatives whose emphasis has always been on quantity rather than quality. I hope this doesn’t sound snobbish: after all, the world needs cheap wine and a good deal of pleasure can be had from simple, crisp neutral whites, well chilled down, in certain circumstances. But to dismiss all Soave as dull and uninteresting would be doing a great disservice to those producers who are doing good work here. The Garganega (“gar-GAH-nay-gah”) grape, on its own (and sometimes with some help from a bit of Chardonnay or some new French oak), can make profound white wines packed full of flavor and interest. An interesting shift has been from Pergola training towards more conventional trellising, which generally produces better quality.
Hillsides also help: the majority of the best wines are from hillside vineyards in the Soave Classico region. The leading lights in this region are widely acknowledged to be Inama, Pieropan and Anselmi, though other producers are excellent as well, such as Pra, Suavia, and Gini. I’m a big fan of Pieropan. We have been pouring their basic Soave by the glass for a month or so now and most everyone has really enjoyed it. This wine, however, ain’t your average Soave! It is unique in that: it is a single vineyard wine, a single varietal wine, a bit of a “late harvest” wine and has a bit of oak aging. It is, with it’s other “Cru” counterpart, considered to be one of the best white wines produced in Italy.
Winery Background/History
Swimming against the tide, the Pieropan family have been flag-bearers for the Soave DOC for several decades, a small speck of quality in an ocean of often less than adequate wines. The family's association with wine stretches back to at least 1890, which is when Leonildo Pieropan established the company. It passed from his hands to those of his sons, Fausto and Gustavo, and then to his grandson, also called Leonildo. Today he and his wife Teresita continue to run the estate, with the help of their own two sons, Andrea and Dario, in more recent years.
The continued success of Pieropan is generally ascribed to Leonildo junior rather than his forebears, and in particular it is likely that Leonildo's attention to detail in the vineyard is a significant factor in this. The family now own more than 30 hectares of vines, which see spur pruning and crop thinning to control yields, and only organic fertilizer. In addition he is committed to producing wines using Garganega, the indigenous variety long associated with the region, unlike some other Soave producers who have introduced international varieties such as Chardonnay or Sauvignon Blanc to bolster their wines.
Varietal – Garganega
Garganega is a variety of white Italian wine grape widely grown in the Veneto region of North East Italy, particularly in the provinces of Verona and Vicenza. It is Italy's 6th most widely planted white grape. It forms the basis of Soave and is also a major portion of the blend used to make Gambellara. In the Classico zone of Soave, where yields are most often kept in check, the grape can produce a delicate wine with lemon, almond and spicy notes. Garganega is also produced in a Recioto version, during which the finest parts of the bunches are dried on mats until winter, and the resulting semi-raisins slowly fermented to yield a seductive, sweet dessert wine that can age for decades.
Wine
Today the Pieropan portfolio includes extended plots in highly regarded Soave crus, not only the famous Calvarino and La Rocca which both feature as single-vineyard wines, but also Pigno, Palestrello and La Santa. Of the first two, the Soave La Rocca is perhaps the most esoteric. Named after the Medieval fortress which dominates the town of Soave this wine, which was first produced with the 1978 vintage, originates from a vineyard of clay and calcareous elements, and it is 100% Garganega. The Soave Calvarino, meanwhile, is essentially the heart of the portfolio; Calvarino, with its basalt and tufa-rich soils, was the original Pieropan vineyard, and it is planted with 70% Garganega and 30% Trebbiano. It has been bottled as a single vineyard wine since 1971. These two are followed by a 'generic' Soave Classico, produced from Garganega and Trebbiano vines grown on the clay, basalt and volcanic soils of the hillside vineyards of the Soave Classico DOC.
Wine: 100% Garganega from single vineyard The vineyard ‘La Rocca’ is situated on the Monte Rocchetta hill, just below the mediaeval castle built by the Scaligeri family in the town of Soave. The microclimate in this vineyard produces wines with a unique perfume and distinctive taste. The grapes are picked when very ripe, often as late as the end of October, giving tremendous complexity and aromatic qualities to the wine, making it a wine of great breeding. The wine was first made under this label in 1978.
- Average age of vines: 10-50 years old
- Harvesting: Hand picked at the end of October, often in two separate passes
- Vinification: The grapes are destemmed and crushed then it is done a short maceration with skin contact in 2500 liter barrels.
- Aging: At the end of fermentation, the wine is racked into barrels of between 2000 and 500 liters capacity where it ages for around a year. During this period, the wine remains on the fine lees where is acquires complexity and a rich bouquet. It is held in bottle for some time before release.
Winery Tasting Notes
Brilliant and intense yellow and white golden hints; characterful wine, reminiscent of exotic fruit and nuts on the nose; soft and persistent on the palate, with hints of spice, length and elegance.
Wine Ratings/Reviews
“There's a subtle richness to this wine, set in a refined frame that supports apple tarte Tatin, allspice, almond paste and lemon curd flavors. Delicate acidity enlivens the wine, and leaves a mouthwatering impression on the smoky finish. Drink now through 2013.” 91 Pts – Wine Spectator
“Pieropan’s 2008 Soave Classico La Rocca emerges with hints of ash, spices, dried apricots and flowers, all of which are woven in a rich, textured fabric of inimitable class. A clean vein of minerality runs through the wine, adding a sense of balance and proportion. The rich, creamy finish rounds things out quite nicely. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2018.” 92 Pts – Wine Advocate
“(100% garganega) Bright straw-gold. Exotic aromas of roasted plum, pineapple and buttery oak. Big, round and sweet, with juicy, broad flavors of tropical fruits and vanilla. Fine-grained and sophisticated if a little reserved today, this strikes me as a little less opulent and obvious than the lush, oakier versions of recent years.”
92 Pts – Int’l Wine Cellar
Food Pairing
Makes an excellent partner to complex dishes, even with strong flavors particularly risottos such as porcini, or celery, squash and almond, salt cod and other fish including salmon, scallops and crab.
-------------------------------
2005 Rivera “Il Falcone”
Le Marche, Italy
The Story
Again, I am pleased to have the opportunity to share a wonderful wine, from a wonderful winery with you this month. We continue our vinous tour of Italy by making a stop in the heel of the Boot, in Puglia. Yes, I have some personal connections to this winery. I had heard great things about it, but had never tried any of their wines until a few years ago when I was at a trade tasting up in San Francisco. It was hosted by the Gambero Rosso – an organization you should become familiar with, as fans of Italian wines. They have a great website, a quarterly magazine (which I refer to as “the Wine Spectator of Italy” because it has articles on travel, food, wine, etc. just like the Spectator – but ONLY in regards to Italy and things Italian. Each year, they host a tasting of the top wines of the vintage.
Four or five years ago, I tasted their “Puer Apuliae,” a barrique-aged 100% Nero di Troia that ended up being my standout wine of the tasting (out of over 100 wines). I contacted the distributor and was told that the wine was not due into the USA for another 6 months! I patiently waited, though, and brought some in to share when it finally arrived. It was worth the wait – big, dark, and savory, yet polished and complex. Fast-forward to May of last year, when I was invited on a trip to Italy by an Italian wine importer. Guess which winery was on our itinerary?? Yep, Rivera. Our visit to this family-owned winery was one of the highlights of the entire trip! Not only were the wines spectacular across the board (I have since had several of their wines on our shelf – the Bombino Bianco, the Rose, the Capellaccio Aglianico to name a few), but the family was SO engaging and sincere. They had us (there was about 20 of us in the group) over to the winery for dinner and they were the most gracious hosts – and the food was phenomenal (all chosen and prepped by our hostess, Signora Corato). I considered choosing the Puer Apuliae, but the “Il Falcone” is a more traditional wine and just as delicious! This is yet another iconic red wine that is considered to be one of the best of its kind.
Winery Background/History
It was in the early 1900s that Giuseppe de Corato acquired the vast Rivera tenuta, or estate, in the territory of Andria, and planted it to vines, olives, and grain. Fifty years later, his son Sebastiano founded the Azienda Vinicola Rivera, inspired by his vision of realizing the enormous viticultural potential of the Castel del Monte area. The old cellar was renovated, the vineyards replanted, and that era's most up-to-date practices adopted, and high-quality wine was the result. Widespread recognition quickly followed, and Rivera became the benchmark of Apulia wine production and the force driving its rebirth.
Sebastiano's single-minded dedication to quality, and that of his son Carlo, brought about a remarkable innovation: the introduction into the estate vineyards of noble grape varieties from other regions, such as sauvignon blanc and chardonnay. The long, patient efforts that followed were rewarded with the incorporation of those varieties into the production code of the Castel del Monte D.O.C. The entry into the Rivera firm of Carlo's son, Sebastiano, signaled a rededication to its values, in a dynamic mode, and a sharply-focused approach to the market, with emphasis falling on developing the area's native varieties, in order to produce wines of significant quality and distinctiveness, wines that would reflect the world of colors, of scents, of flavors that make up the land of Apulia.
Region
The Castel del Monte D.O.C., which regulates one of the most exceptional growing areas in Apulia, could hardly be given any other name but that of its most illustrious symbol – a castle or fortress that sits atop one of the highest points of the region. The D.O.C. zone, north of Bari, covers all the areas of the Alta Murgia that slope down towards the Adriatic, including two that share the same Mediterranean climate but are quite different in soil types and landscape. Above 300 meters reigns the rocky plateau of the Murgia; among the pastures and cultivated fields are the traditional vineyards trained a spalliera bassa, or with low vertical canopies, planted in the low-lying lame where their roots can find nourishment even in the driest summers. Between 180 and 300 meters, on the other hand, the pre-Murgia zone is characterized by deep, calcareous-tufa soils that host an endless series of olive groves, vineyards, and golden fields of grain. The traditional varieties here are native grapes, the white Pampanuto and Bombino Bianco, and the red Bombino Nero, Nero di Troia, Montepulciano, and Aglianico, plus - thanks specifically to research done by Rivera -, the foreign white varieties Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc, which are now included in D.O.C. regulations.
Wine
- Grape Varietals: 70% Nero di Troia, 30% Montepulciano.
- Vineyards: Old vineyards planted at an altitude of 200 meters in deep tufaceous soils, trained to spurred cordon with a vine density of 4,800 per hectare.
- Vinification: The grapes are picked between mid-October and the first week of November. The must is given a 12-14 day maceration in stainless steel, with frequent pumpovers, to maximize aroma and color extraction and, at the same time, soften tannins.
- Maturation: The wine matures for 12-14 months in French oak barrels of varying ages to gain complexity and balance without becoming oaky. A further year in bottle allows its varietal characteristics to fully develop.
Varietal – Nero/Uva di Troia
Uva di Troia is a red wine grape variety grown in the Italian region of Puglia, particularly in the areas around Andria and Barletta, and in the Province of Bari. The name probably derives from the town of Troia in the Province of Foggia whose legendary founder was the Greek hero Diomedes, who had destroyed the ancient Troy. Uva di Troia may be used by itself or blended with such grapes as Bombino Nero, Montepulciano or Sangiovese. Juicy and ripe yet earthy and tannic, with a distinct scent of violets, it makes an attractive and interesting wine when handled correctly.
Winery Tasting Notes
Dense garnet red in hue; complex nose offering ripe fruit, leather, tobacco leaf, and spice; dry and austere but very generous in the mouth, displaying an absolutely magisterial structure and a lingering, well-balanced finish.
Wine Ratings/Reviews
“The 2005 Il Falcone, a French oak-aged blend of 70% Nero di Troia and 30% Montepulciano, is Rivera’s top red. Freshly cut roses, earthiness, smoke, red berries and spices come together beautifully in this graceful mid-weight red. The finish could use a touch more polish, but another year or two in bottle should help the tannins soften. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2017.
This is another strong set of releases from Rivera, one of Puglia’s leading producers. Even better, the wines remain very fairly priced considering the quality of what is in the bottle.” 91 Pts – Wine Advocate
Food Pairing
The weight and elegance of this wine makes it the perfect companion to fine roasts, large game, meats in hearty sauces, and aged cheeses. Serve at cool room temperature after allowing to breathe at least one hour. Can age up to 7-10 years if stored properly.
REMEMBER: Visit Vino Voce to check out the other November Club Selections – you get the “Discounted Member Price” on those wines too!
